Introduction to the Trail - Auto Tour 1

 Prelude to the Flight of the Nez Perce 

Prior to 1855 the Nez Perce (or, in their language, Niimíipuu, meaning “the real people” or “we the people”) homeland extended throughout much of north-central Idaho, northeastern Oregon and southeastern Washington. Tension mounted as whites moved west and settled in the Nez Perce territory. In that same year, the United States government made a treaty that established an approximately 7,500,000-acre Nez Perce Indian Reservation encompassing most of their traditional homeland. 

However, the discovery of gold on Nez Perce land triggered an influx of settlers and fueled more conflicts. A new treaty in 1863 shrank the reservation to one-tenth its original size. Some bands of Nez Perce refused to sign the treaty and became known as the “non-treaty” Nez Perce.

In the spring of 1877 the government, responding to pressure from settlers, called on the military to force the “non-treaty” Nez Perce onto the new reservation in Idaho Territory. General Oliver Otis Howard, a Civil War veteran, was to carry out the task.

From June to October of 1877, Hinmatóowyalahtq’it (Chief Joseph), Hototo (Lean Elk), ’Elelímyete’qenin’ (Chief Looking Glass), Chief Ollokot (Frog), Chief Piyóop’yoo ay áy (White Bird) and others led between 750 - 800 Nez Perce men, women and children along with approximately 2,000 horses over 1,170 mountainous miles to what they hoped would be safety with their friends to the east.

The 1877 Flight of the Nez Perce from their homelands while being pursued by U.S. Army, General Howard and Colonels Samual Davis Sturgis, John Gibbon and Nelson Appleton Miles is one of the most fascinating and sorrowful events in Western U.S. history.

The Chase Begins 

Rather than risk conflict by continuing to resist relocation, the “non-treaty” Nez Perce gathered their livestock and belongings and began a painful and dif cult journey to the new reservation.

On June 14, 1877, the Nez Perce bands reached a familiar camas-gathering site at Tolo Lake near Grangeville, Idaho.

That night several young warriors, angered by past atrocities and injustices at the hands of white settlers, set out to avenge their people. Their raid left a number of local settlers dead. The Nez Perce decided to ee and thus embarked upon a four-month journey with General Howard in full pursuit.

This Auto Tour describes the early days of the Flight of the Nez Perce from the U.S. Army under the command of General Howard. In an attempt to reach their perceived allies, the Crow, the “non-treaty” Nez Perce travelled east, leaving behind their traditional homelands in search of peace. 

 

AS YOU TRAVEL THE TRAIL

The trail memorializes not only those who died during the flight, but those who survived. Their tragic journey marked the end of freedom for the Nez Perce and opened their lands to settlement. As you travel this historic trail between Northeastern Oregon and Kooskia, Idaho, whether you drive, ride or walk, you will gain an understanding of and appreciation for the difficulty of their journey and the tremendous odds the Nez Perce had to face and overcome.

The 1877 Flight of the Nez Perce symbolizes the dramatic collision of cultures which continues to shape America and its people. A native people were forced to flee their homelands in a futile attempt to avoid war and save their traditional ways. European immigrants found themselves fighting neighbors who had been their friends for many years. Traditional trails, which had long been a source of joy and sustenance, became trails of fight and conflict, trails of sorrow. 

Chronology of Events

The events in this timeline coincide with the sites seen on this auto tour:

May 3-14 – A final council between the “non-treaty” Nez Perce and General Oliver Otis Howard takes place at Fort Lapwai. A move to the reservation seems inevitable. 
May 31 – The Wallowa Band crosses the Snake River at Dug Bar. 
June 3 – The five “non-treaty” bands of Chief Joseph, Chief White Bird, Chief Looking Glass, Toohoolhoolzote and Husishusis Kute converge at Tolo Lake for a council and camas gathering.  June 13 – Wáalaytic (Shore Crossing), Sáapsis ’ilp’ílp (Red Mocassin Top) and Wetyétmes wehéyqt (Swan Necklace) leave the Tolo Lake camp. 
June 14 – Raids occur on the Salmon River leaving four white settlers dead. Chief Looking Glass returns to his village at the mouth of Clear Creek and Husishusis Kute camps on the South Fork of the Clearwater River. The other three bands flee to safety on Cottonwood Creek.
June 15 – The three bands of Chief Joseph, Chiefs White Bird and Toohoolhoolzote move to Lamtamas camp at the mouth of
White Bird Creek on the Salmon River. Ninety United States soldiers leave Fort Lapwai at night to begin driving the Nez
Perce onto the reservation.
June 17 – Battle of White Bird. Thirty-four soldiers are killed and three Nez Perce are wounded. k
June 18 – After camping near Slate Creek on the Salmon River, the Nez Perce camp moves downstream to Horseshoe Bend.
June 19 – The Nez Perce cross the Salmon River.
June 26-27 – General Howard’s troops bury their dead at the White Bird battlefield. 
July 1 – Captain Whipple’s troops attack and plunder Chief Looking Glass’ village near Kooskia. 
July 3 – Captain Rains and 12 troopers are killed near Cottonwood. 
July 5 – Nez Perce warriors skirmish with white citizen volunteers from Mount, Idaho.
July 7 – The Nez Perce Bands including the Chief Looking Glass Band, camp on Cottonwood Creek on the South Fork of the Clearwater. 
July 11 – Battle of the Clearwater. 
July 12 – General Howard’s command occupies and plunders the Nez Perce camp on the South Fork of the Clearwater. 

 

The Nez Perce cultural identity was and is inextricably tied to the land they occupied. They believe that the earth is to be revered, not owned; that the nurturing qualities of the land, the very water and soil, are gifts bestowed upon the people. Believing that they are preordained to occupy this land and that the cycle of living from and then dying and returning back to the same land fosters an unwavering cultural tie to this area. The regeneration of the Niimíipuu through their land is at the root of their concept of life. “This is where we were born and raised... It is our native country. It is impossible for us to leave. “ – Ollokot (Frog)

Notes on Trail Preservation:

To the Niimíipuu, the Trail is part of the Nez Perce sacred land. Use the Trail with respect, remembering that it is part of our heritage. If we want those who come after us to have a sense of the history, it is up to us to preserve and protect the Trail. This land is an important source of spiritual strength for all people including the Nez Perce. Natural and historic sites should be left undisturbed by all who visit.

The Nez Perce bands

The five bands that historically occupied the Wallowa area of Oregon:

Imnámma – Imnaha River Band
Walwáama – Wallowa Band
Weliwe – Band at the mouth of the Grande Ronde River, or Williwewix
Inanto nu – Band at the mouth of Joseph Creek
Toiknimapu – Band above Joseph Creek on the north side of the Grande Ronde River
~ Spinden, H.J. (1908). “The Nez Perce Indians”

Chief Joseph

Hinmatóowyalahtq’it (Thunder Traveling to Loftier Mountain Heights), also known as Young Chief Joseph was chief of the Wallowa Band of Nez Perce during the 1877 Flight.
Unlike other chiefs in the area, Chief Joseph had a great deal of experience negotiating with white settlers, smoothing out disputes and keeping the peace. His father had spent a great deal of time at Spalding’s Mission where the young Joseph must have gained a unique perspective on white culture. This relationship with the settlers made Joseph well known to the general public.
During the events of 1877 the press incorrectly labeled Chief Joseph as the supreme leader of the “non-treaty” Nez Perce and attributed the military prowess of the Nez Perce to him. In truth, Josephs’ role during the flight was no greater than any of the other chiefs, and at several times he had little sway over the decisions of the council.
Chief Joseph became synonymous with the Flight of 1877 and the Nez Perce due in large part to his eloquence and tireless advocation for his people after the events of 1877.

Credits and Sources:

 NPNHT Auto Tour Route 1