Introduction to the Trail - Auto Tour 5
Prelude to the Flight of the Nez Perce
Prior to 1855 the Nez Perce (or, in their language, Niimíipuu, meaning “the people” or “we the people”) homeland extended throughout much of north-central Idaho, northeastern Oregon and southeastern Washington. Tension mounted as whites moved West and settled in the Nez Perce territory. In that same year, the United States government made a treaty that established an approximately 7,500,000-acre Nez Perce Indian Reservation encompassing most of their traditional homeland.
However, the discovery of gold on Nez Perce land triggered an influx of more settlers and fueled more conflicts. A new treaty in 1863 shrank the reservation to one-tenth its original size. Some bands of Nez Perce refused to sign the treaty and became known as the “non-treaty” Nez Perce.
The government, responding to pressure from settlers, called on the military to force the “non-treaty” Nez Perce onto the new reservation in Idaho Territory. General Oliver Otis Howard, a Civil War veteran, was to carry out the task.
From June to October of 1877, Hinmatóowyalahtq’it (Chief Joseph), Hototo (Lean Elk), ’Elelímyete’qenin’ (Chief Looking Glass), ’álok’at (Chief Ollikut - Frog), Chief Peo peo Hix hiix (White Bird) and others led between 750 - 800 Nez Perce men, women and children along with approximately 2,000 horses over 1,170 mountainous miles to what they hoped would be safety with their friends to the east.
The 1877 Flight of the Nez Perce from their homelands while being pursued by U.S. Army, General Howard and Colonels Samual Davis Sturgis, John Gibbon and Nelson Appleton Miles is one of the most fascinating and sorrowful events in Western U.S. history.
The Chase Begins
Rather than risk conflict by continuing to resist relocation, the “non-treaty” Nez Perce gathered their livestock and belongings and began a painful and dif cult journey to the new reservation.
On June 14, 1877, the Nez Perce bands reached a familiar camas-gathering site at Tolo Lake near Grangeville, Idaho.
That night several young warriors, angered by past atrocities and injustices at the hands of white settlers, set out to avenge their people. Their raid left a number of local settlers dead. The Nez Perce decided to ee and thus embarked upon a four-month journey with General Howard in full pursuit.
This Auto Tour describes the sad and dif cult journey of the Nez Perce as they ed from the U.S. Army under General Howard’s command, following a surprise attack on their camp along the Big Hole River. Carrying their dying and wounded with them, the Nez Perce travelled southward through a vast and rugged landscape of wind-swept, sagebrush plains and high mountain valleys from Leadore, Idaho, to West Yellowstone, Montana.
Camas Plant
The camas (Qém’es) bulb, a staple food of the Nez Perce, is more nutritious than a potato. It is gathered with a digging stick, then roasted, baked, broiled, steamed or dried.
The 1877 Flight of the Nez Perce symbolizes the dramatic collision of cultures which continues to shape America and its people. A native people were forced to ee their homelands in a futile attempt to avoid war and save their traditional ways. European immigrants found themselves fighting neighbors who had been their friends for many years. Traditional trails, which had long been a source of joy and sustenance, became trails of flight and conflict, trails of sorrow.
Chronology of Events
The events in this timeline coincide with the sites seen on this auto tour:
August 13 – Nez Perce cross the Continental Divide at Bannock Pass and set up camp just outside Junction, Idaho. General Howard departs Big Hole Battlefield leaving most of his infantry behind and camps 23 miles south of the battlefield. The remainder of Howard’s troops leave on August 15 and catch up with him a few days later.
August 14 – Nez Perce move camp to Gilmore Summit, Idaho area at the head of Birch Creek. General Howard advances 25 miles to Horse Prairie Creek.
August 15 – Nez Perce move south through the Lemhi Valley on Old Mormon Road (present day Idaho State Highway 28). Along Birch Creek, warriors encounter a wagon train carrying food and supplies. A fight ensues, leaving five members of the wagon train dead and one Nez Perce mortally wounded.
Aug. 16-17 – Nez Perce stop at Hole-in-the-Rock, then cross the wagon road above Dry Creek Station near present-day Spencer, Idaho, and camp in Camas Meadows. General Howard’s troops camp at Red Rock Station and then Junction Station. Lieutenant George R. Bacon is dispatched to the vicinity of Henry’s Lake via Red Rock Lakes to watch for and intercept the Nez Perce. Captain James E. Calloway and a group of Montana volunteers join General Howard.
August 18 – Nez Perce camp near the junction of Camas and Spring Creeks. Captain Randolph Norwood joins General Howard, now camped at Dry Creek Station, eight miles below Pleasant Valley on the stage road.
August 19 – Nez Perce camp southeast of Camas Meadows. General Howard reaches Camas Meadows and establishes Camp Calloway.
August 20 – A group of warriors raid General Howard’s camp and make off with the mule herd. Captain Norwood’s command, one of three, is sent in pursuit and later skirmishes at Camas Meadows Battle with the Nez Perce.
August 21 – General Howard moves his troops to Shotgun Creek. The Nez Perce camp in a meadow southwest of Henry’s Lake.
August 22 – Nez Perce cross the Continental Divide at Targhee Pass, enter Montana and descend to the Madison River Valley, where they enter Yellowstone National Park. Samuel A. Glass, wounded at the Camas Meadow Battle dies and is buried at what is now the Frontier Soldiers Grave memorial.
August 24 – General Howard moves camp to Henry’s Lake inlet at Sawtell Ranch. He then leaves for Virginia City, Montana, for supplies and mules.
August 28 – After returning from Virginia City, Montana on August 27, General Howard and his men leave Henry’s Lake and proceed to Yellowstone National Park. The Montana volunteers leave General Howard’s command and head for home.
—AS YOU TRAVEL THE TRAIL—
The trail memorializes not only
those who died during the flight,
but those who survived.
Their tragic journey marked the end
of freedom for the Nez Perce
and opened their lands to settlement.
As you travel this historic trail
between Leadore, Idaho and
Yellowstone National Park,
whether you drive, ride or walk,
you will gain an
understanding of and appreciation for
the difficulty of their journey
and the tremendous odds
the Nez Perce had to face and overcome.
The Flight of the Nez Perce
Before starting over the Lolo Trail, the chiefs proclaimed there would be a peaceable and law-abiding passage through all the country. This policy of nonviolence was successful as they crossed the Lolo Trail and traveled through the Bitterroot Valley. During this time the Nez Perce were able to avoid confrontation with the U.S. Army and remain peaceful with the local white settlers. All of this changed once Colonel Gibbons caught up with them at Big Hole.
After a bloody two-day battle at the Big Hole River, the Nez Perce gathered their wounded and continued south through the Big Hole and Horse Prairie Valleys of Montana, raiding a few ranches on the way. On August 13 they crossed the Continental Divide at Bannock Pass into Idaho.
“He (Lean Elk) understood and would have the people up early in the morning, and traveling till about ten o’clock. Then he ordered a stop and cooking was done while the horses filled upon grass. About two o’clock he would travel again. Kept going until about ten o’clock at night. We had no timepiece, but we could easily judge our movements. In this way the people covered many miles each sun. They were outdistancing the soldiers. Everybody was glad …”
– Wa’tólin (Hair Combed Over Eyes), Tribal Historian and Warrior
Credits and Sources:
NPNHT Autotour 5
