Introduction to the Trail - Auto Tour 7

Prelude to the Flight of the Nez Perce

The Summer of 1877 brought tragedy to the Nez Perce (or, in their language, Nimíipuu, meaning “the real people” or “we the people”). Prior to 1855 the Nez Perce homeland extended throughout much of north-central Idaho, northeastern Oregon and southeastern Washington. Tension mounted as whites moved west and settled in the Nez Perce territory. In that same year, the United States government made a treaty that established an approximately 7,500,000- acre Nez Perce Indian Reservation encompassing most of their traditional homeland. However, the discovery of gold on Nez Perce land triggered an influx of settlers and fueled more conflicts. A new treaty in 1863 shrank the reservation to one-tenth its original size. Some bands of Nez Perce refused to sign the treaty and became known as the “non-treaty” Nez Perce.

The government, responding to pressure from settlers, called on the military to force the “non-treaty” Nez Perce onto the new reservation in Idaho Territory. General Oliver Otis Howard, a Civil War veteran, was to carry out the task.
From June to October of 1877, Hinmatóowyalahtq’it (Chief Joseph), Hototo (Lean Elk), ’Elelímyete’qenin’ (Chief Looking Glass), Chief Ollokot (Frog), Chief Piyóop’yoo ay áy (White Bird) and others led between 750 - 800 Nez Perce men, women and children along with approximately 2,000 horses over 1,170 mountainous miles to what they hoped would be safety with their friends to the east.
The 1877 Flight of the Nez Perce from their homelands while being pursued by U.S. Army, General O. O. Howard and Colonels Samual Davis Sturgis, John Oliver Gibbon and Nelson Appleton Miles is one of the most fascinating and sorrowful events in Western U.S. history.

The Story So Far

Rather than risk conflict by continuing to resist relocation, the “non-treaty” Nez Perce gathered their livestock and belongings and began a painful and difficult journey to the new reservation.
On June 3, 1877, the Nez Perce bands reached a familiar camas-gathering site at Tolo Lake (Tipáxliwam “Split Rocks”) near Grangeville, Idaho.
That night several young warriors, angered by past atrocities and injustices at the hands of white settlers, set out to avenge their people. Their raid left a number of local settlers dead. The Nez Perce decided to flee.
After a battle at White Bird Canyon, they were pursued by General Howard across Idaho and Montana. Following the well-worn Lolo Trail across the rugged Bitterroot Mountains, they entered Montana near Lolo Pass. They moved without conflict south through the Bitterroot Valley to the Big Hole Valley, where the Army caught them by surprise killing Nez Perce men, women and children. After that, the Nez Perce moved as quickly as they could through the Rocky Mountains and Yellowstone National Park hoping to enlist the help of the Crow people.
While in Yellowstone National Park, the Nez Perce encountered several parties of tourists. By this time they were in need of supplies and many of them were intent on revenge for the earlier battles. Some of the encounters ended in death for those they met.
By September of 1877, Colonel Sturgis and his men joined in the pursuit, waiting for the Nez Perce to emerge from the Park on the east side of the Absaroka Mountains (originally known as Snow Mountains). The Nez Perce eluded Army troops, passing through the deep, narrow canyon of the Clarks Fork River to the north.
At this point it became apparent that their old allies, the Crow, were unwilling to risk war with the army by helping the Nez Perce. Their only option was to try and escape to Canada. At Canyon Creek, near Billings they engaged in another battle with the Army before continuing their flight north.

The Flight of the Nez Perce in 1877symbolizes the dramatic collision of cultures which continues to shape America and its people. A native people were forced to flee their homelands in a futile attempt to avoid war and save their traditional ways. European immigrants found themselves fighting neighbors who had been their friends for many years. Traditional trails, which had long been a source of joy and sustenance, became trails of flight and conflict, trails of sorrow.

Chronology of Events

The events in this timeline coincide with the sites seen on this auto tour:

September 1 – Colonel Sturgis stages his command near Clarks Fork Canyon. 
September 6 – Colonel Sturgis moves his camp southeast closer to Heart Mountain.
September 7 – General Howard passes Cooke City, Montana. 
September 8 – General Howard’s scouts meet Colonel Sturgis’s couriers. Sturgis heads to the Shoshone River. The Nez Perce descend into Clarks Fork Canyon. 
September 9 – General Howard camps at the foot of Dead Indian Hill. Colonel Sturgis reaches the Shoshone, near Cody, Wyoming, does not find the Nez Perce, and heads north into the Absaroka Mountains.
September 10 – General Howard descends into Clarks Fork Canyon. 
September 11 – Colonel Sturgis catches up with General Howard near
Belfry, Montana. 
September 12 – The Nez Perce cross the Yellowstone River near Laurel, Montana. 
September 13 – Nez Perce warriors take control of a stagecoach. The Battle of Canyon Creek occurs when Colonel Sturgis catches up with the Nez Perce. Sturgis camps on the battlefield. 
September 15 – Colonel Sturgis camps on the Musselshell River, Montana and decides not to continue pursuing the Nez Perce.

 

— AS YOU TRAVEL THE TRAIL—

The trail memorializes not only
those who died during the flight,
but those who survived.
Their tragic journey marked the end
of freedom for the Nez Perce
and opened their lands to settlement.
As you travel this historic trail
between Yellowstone National Park
and Canyon Creek
whether you drive, ride or walk,
you will gain an
understanding of and appreciation for
the difficulty of their journey
and the tremendous odds
the Nez Perce had to face and overcome.

Credits and Sources:

NPNHT Auto Tour 7