Through the Bitterroot Valley: Lolo Creek to Carlton Creek

Lolo Creek to Carlton Creek

After avoiding a major conflict on the Lolo Trail, the Nez Perce followed Lolo Creek to the Bitterroot River. Here they were joined by Poker Joe and several others increasing their numbers by twelve lodges. Also known as Lean Elk, Poker Joe would later assume leadership of the Nez Perce. Chief White Bird and others wanted to go north to Canada. Chief Looking Glass insisted on traveling south toward the Big Hole Valley where he had led many hunting parties. He knew there were few settlements and many lush meadows for grazing horses. The chiefs made a fateful decision to go south, up the Bitterroot Valley, into the Big Hole Valley, and east to the buffalo country.

The Nez Perce camped on settler J. P. McClain’s ranch just north of Carlton Creek, in the vicinity of today’s Looking Glass Recreation Area. Some Bitterroot volunteers could not return home without passing through the Nez Perce camp. Chief Looking Glass made it clear that they did not wish to fight and permitted the volunteers to pass unharmed through the camp.

You are volunteers; you come over to fight us. I could kill you if I wanted to, but I do not. You can go to your homes. I give you my word of honor that I will harm nobody.
– Looking Glass (younger) Wrapped in Wind (’elelímyete'qenin') 
 
Looking Glass met us and told us he would not harm any persons or property in the valley if allowed to pass in peace and that we could pass through his camp to our homes. 
– W. B. Harlan, settler
 
 

Poker Joe

Known by many names, Lean Elk, Little Tobacco, and hotóoto, the half French and half Nez Perce loved to gamble and was
best known as Poker Joe to the white men in many frontier towns in Montana. Poker Joe was one of the many heroes of
the Nez Perce during the war and flight of 1877.
During the summer of 1877, Poker Joe was returning to Idaho across the Lolo Trail from Buffalo country. Six miles away from Kamiah he heard of the outbreak of war and he decided to turn back toward Montana. During his trip back to Montana, he
accidently injured his leg with a knife. The white settlers of the Bitterroot Valley accused him of being hurt in one of the battles
in Idaho and would not believe him when he tried to explain his injury. Disgusted that he was not believed he decided to join the Nez Perce. The Nez Perce welcomed Poker Joe, impressed by his skills as a brave and impulsive fighter.

“I knew Poker Joe very well. He was a great leader - a brave warrior.”
– Yellow Wolf (Hímiin Maqsmáqs)

Following the massacre and battle at Big Hole, Poker Joe was chosen as trail leader for the Nez Perce. He knew Montana very well from years of hunting buffalo. Choosing the route carefully and setting a quick pace, Poker Joe would have the people rise early and travel until ten o’clock at night. Every day the Nez Perce bands would gain distance from their pursuers. Some thought that Poker Joe moved the people too quickly but remembering the tragedies of Big Hole he felt that he could not afford to lighten the pace.

“I am trying to save the people, doing my best to cross into Canada before the soldiers find us. You can take command, but I think we will be caught and killed.”
– Poker Joe

Poker Joe led the Nez Perce from the Big Hole Valley, through Yellowstone National Park and all the way to the Missouri River, approximately 500 miles. Tragically Poker Joe was mistaken for an enemy during the Battle of the Bear Paw and was accidently killed by a Nez Perce warrior.

 

Credits and Sources:

NPNHT AutoTour Route 3 Brochure