Over the Continental Divide

My shaking heart tells me trouble and death will overtake us if we make no hurry through this land! I cannot smother, I cannot hide what I see. I must speak what is revealed to me. Let us be gone to the buffalo country. 
– Lone Bird (Piyóopiyo ’ipciwáatx) Nez Perce warrior 
 
My brothers my sisters, I am telling you! In a dream last night I saw myself killed I will be killed soon! 
– Wahlitits (Wáalaytic) Nez Perce warrior killed at the Big Hole Battle 

On August 4, the Nez Perce camped near the confluence of the Bitterroot River_s east and west forks. Two young warriors, Lone Bird and Wahlitits, told of dreams they had warning that death would follow if they did not hurry. Chief Looking Glass was still convinced they need not hurry. The war was left in Idaho. The dreams were disregarded. Chief Looking Glass prevailed. Completely unaware of Colonel Gibbon, Yellow Wolf expressed the same belief by proclaiming, "War is quit!"

Personal Guardians 
The Nez Perce had a strong belief in dreams and visions. Young boys and girls often went alone to remote places, hoping to receive knowledge imparted by a personal guardian spirit. This personal Wéeyekin would warn them of danger and give them special powers. In all phases of daily life, the Nez Perce thought of the spirits of the forces and objects around them as supernatural guardians–their Wéeyekin.
 

Rugged Traveler

Over Gibbons Pass
The Bitterroot-Big Hole Road, locally known as Gibbons Pass Road, provides a relatively low elevation route (6,941 feet) over the Continental Divide. The pass played a significant role furnishing easy access through the Bitterroot Mountains for Native Americans, explorers, trappers, traders, and settlers. For centuries, the tribes in this region used this pass to travel to and from buffalo hunts on the plains.

Driving the Bitterroot-Big Hole Road 

Be Prepared.This route is not recommended for vehicles over 25 feet in length or vehicles with low clearance. Take along a good spare tire, not a temporary one. Be sure to have a full tank of gas. 

Don’t cut curves.Drive slowly enough that you could stop in 21/2-car lengths, in case another vehicle is coming toward you around a curve, 

Watch for soft shoulders.Especially near those 100 foot drop-offs. Watch for falling rocks, and fallen trees or rocks on the road. 

Keep track of pull-outs as you drive.You may need to back up a distance to one of them to let another vehicle pass. Vehicles traveling uphill have the right-of-way, so the downhill driver has to back uphill to a safe spot for passing. 

Nearest services.Sula on Highway 93, Wisdom in the Big Hole Valley, and Gibbonsville in Idaho. 

Check current road conditionsSula Ranger District at 406-821-3201 

The Bitterroot-Big Hole Road follows part of the historic Nee-Me-Poo Trail, which roughly follows an ancient tribal trail. It is this trail that the fleeing Nez Perce traveled on their way to the Big Hole Valley, closely followed by Colonel Gibbon with U.S. Army soldiers and Bitterroot volunteers. 

By today’s standards, access isn’t easy. Forest Road #106 from Sula Ranger Station to Gibbons Pass is a steep, winding, and narrow one-lane road with few turnouts. In places the side hill drops off several hundred feet, and driving can be nerve-wracking! This section of road is NOT suitable for vehicles longer than 25 feet (motor homes, trailers) or low clearance vehicles. 

For ease of travel, and to protect the old trail tread, the “modern” route of the Nee-Me-Poo Trail follows a series of old logging roads. If you hike the Nee-Me-Poo Trail, look for sections of the old trail along your way. 

For Hikers: Trail 406 

This section of the Nez Perce National Historic Trail (Nee- Me-Poo) trail is 3.1 miles long. It begins at Forest Road 10001 and ends at Beaverhead - Deerlodge National Forest Road 1260 The trailhead is east of US Highway 93 near the turnoff to Indian Trees Campground. The trail gives the ambitious hiker an idea of the forbidding terrain. Scarred trees are still visible. Captain William Clark, of the Lewis and Clark expedition, and his party used this trail in 1806 on their return journey east.

There is an abundance of wildlife along the Nez Perce National Historic Trail. All wild animals need to be treated with caution and respect. If you are planning to hike, check with the nearest land management agency for information on local wildlife. Know how to be safe in wild country. 

Credits and Sources:

NPNHT Auto Tour Route 3 Brochure