Big Hole Battlefield to Skinner Meadows
"A Rifle Shot At First Light"
“That night the warriors paraded about camp, singing, all making a good time. It was first since the war started, everybody with good feelings. Going to the buffalo country! No more fighting after Lolo Pass. Warwas quit! All Montana citizens [are] our friends. This land had belonged to the Flatheads, our old time friends. They called it Iskumkselalik Pah; meaning ‘place of the ground squirrels.’”
– Yellow Wolf (Hímiin maqsmáqs)
The Nez Perce, however, were unaware that anotherpursuer had taken up the chase. Ordered to Missoula from Fort Shaw, Colonel John Gibbon and his 7th Infantry made a forced march through the Bitterroot Valley, covering upwards of 30 miles a day. After reaching the Big Hole Valley, scouts quickly located the Nez Perce camp.
Looking down on more than 90 tipis spread out along the North Fork of the Big Hole River, Gibbon ordered his men to prepare for a surprise attack. At 4 a.m. on August 9, 1877, as the first light of dawn broke the eastern horizon, Gibbon’s troops awaited the signal to start their assault.
"Our skirmishers were advanced a short distance where we remained for the signs of the coming daylight, when a solitary Indian came out from the lodges, riding directly towards us, evidently going to their herd of horses ... we had come between them and their stock. In order for the Indian to reach the horses, he would have to come through our line, and we could not remain long without being discovered. My men had been instructed (to shoot the first Indian they saw) and the poor devil paid the penalty. Some four or ve of the boys helped him on his way.”
– Captain John Catlin
The soldiers descended upon the sleeping village, plunging into willows and icy water as they set the stage for the battle of the Big Hole.
“About early morning I was awakened. My father and Chief Yellow Bull were standing, talking low. They thought they saw soldiers across the creek. Next instant we heard shots from above the creek across the canyon, maybe a quarter mile away. I heard the loud call, ‘We are attacked! We are attacked!’”
– Red Elk (Wewúkye ’ilp’ílp)
Big Hole National Battle Field
Big Hole National Battle Field tells the story of what happened at this site on August 9-10, 1877, through the words, voices and objects of the people who were here.
The Park’s visitor center offers compelling new exhibits, a 26-minute film, indoor and outdoor viewing areas, ranger-led programs and a 3D map of the entire Nez Perce route. For those wishing to learn more, books about the Nez Perce and this era of history are available for sale at the book store.
Trails throughout the battle field are open year round and during the summer months ranger programs are offered daily.
“Few of us will soon forget the wail of mingled grief, rage and horror which came from the camp four or five hundred yards from us when the Indians returned to it and recognized their slaughtered warriors, women and children. Above this wail of horror, we could hear the passionate appeal of the leaders urging their followers to fight and the war whoops in answer which boded us no good.”
– From Colonel John Gibbon’s report
For two days the fighting wore on. Despite Gibbon’s surprise attack, the Nez Perce rallied and turned the tide of battle. On a wooded knoll above the river, Gibbon and his men found themselves pinned down in rifle pits, hastily dug with tools at hand, including trowel bayonets. At one point during the siege, the howitzer Gibbon’s had brought began to re. However, after only two shots the gun was captured by Nez Perce Warriors.
"All along the trail was crying. Mourning for many left where we thought no war would come. Old people, half grown boys and girls, mothers and li le babies. Many only half buried and left for the wolves and coyotes. I can never forget that day.”
– Black Eagle (Tipyeléhne cimúuxcimux)
As the fighting continued, the Nez Perce quickly broke camp. They buried their dead as best they could, loaded the wounded on travois and headed south through the BigHole Valley.
Finally, with one last volley of shots at the entrenched soldiers, the warriors set off to reunite with their families.
Wounded in battle, Colonel Gibbon was taken to Deerlodge, Montana, for treatment. Meanwhile, General Howard took up the chase and continued his pursuit ofthe Nez Perce.
“There was no stuttering about picking up trails along there, for the main big trail of the hostiles led right o to the south. Horse tracks and mule tracks, and the tracks of 200 troopers and doughboys following them.”
– John (J. W.) Reddington
About 12 miles from the battlefield the Nez Perce made camp along the banks of Lake Creek at a place known as Táxsiin or “with willows.” It is believed they constructed rifle fortications by digging shallow depressions and surrounding them with stone cobbles. General Howard’s pursuing forces reportedly camped at this same location a few days later.
Looking west you’ll see the southern end of the Bitterroot Mountains. Along this boundary between Montana and Idahois the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail, with excellent daytime and overnight hikes and camping.
The headwaters of the Big Hole River, one of Montana’s blue-ribbon trout streams, are found at the base of the Big Hole Divide. As you look at the lush grass and gentle waters of Skinner Meadows, you can easily imagine theNez Perce or military stopping here to rest.
Nez Perce Appaloosa Horse(Máamin)
The Nez Perce were introduced to horses in the 1730s. Their mastery of the animal soon went beyond the ability to pack and ride; they learned that through selective breeding they could cultivate a horse uniquely suited to the country in which they lived.
Sure-footed, hard-hoofed, strong-winded and powerful, NezPerce ponies became prized among both whites and Indians. Meriwether Lewis called them “lofty, elegantly formed, active and durable.” Though the Nez Perce used and bred all typesof horses, some were developed with distinct markings; largespots colored various shades of brown, white, and grey setthem apart from other horses. Early fur traders knew them as Nez Perce horses. Homesteaders to the area called them “appalousey” after the Palouse River region of eastern Washington. The Palouse horse became known as an Appaloosa, a name they carry to this day
